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01 Monday Apr 2013
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01 Monday Apr 2013
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01 Monday Apr 2013
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01 Monday Apr 2013
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01 Monday Apr 2013
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01 Monday Apr 2013
This is a picture of the ghost city called Ani (Անի), located in Turkey near the city of Gyumri (Գյումրի). Ani was, at one time, the historic capital of medieval Armenia. I’ve never been to Ani but I lived near it for two years.
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20 Wednesday Mar 2013
Posted in Armenia, Illustration and art
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Armenia, grief, Gyumri, Mankatoon, orphan, մանկատուն, survivor's guilt, The Unwanted Children's House
Here are my heroes. I was sent to Gyumri, Armenia, to teach English, but what consumed me instead was the Mankatoon (մանկատուն), The Unwanted Children’s House, the State-run Orphanage for, as the director once told me, “babies 0-5.”
The nurses you see here are my heroes. They were faced with the impossible task of taking care of children the locals didn’t even think were human. In 1996 we were faced with massive shortages in so much (food, medicine, etc) that plagued Gyumri. These women, who hadn’t been paid in months, perhaps years, were, on top of having to take care of their own families, ones who came every day to the orphanage with love enough to care for those who no one else would. And the mortality rate for these children was terrible. With no medicine and the only thing we could feed them was watery, emergency-aid soup, they died. All the children I took care of for two years are now dead, so I’ve been told. I was only 25 and not ready to face a world where children starved to death and I was powerless to do anything about it.
I think, one day, I will see my babies again and apologize to them. Because they died and I survived and I carry that guilt everywhere I go.
20 Wednesday Mar 2013
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1995-97, Armenia, first English-Armenian dictionary, Gyumri, Lord Byron, Peace Corps, School #20
This was the reason I was sent to Gyumri, Armenia. To teach English at the Lord Byron school. It was a gift from the British government after the earthquake. Turns out that Byron helped to create the first English-Armenian dictionary. There was a statue of him outside the main building. My students had less of an idea of who Byron was, though. One day a boy, Aram, told me “please, next time you see Mr. Byron, tell him he is a very nice man.” I smiled and told him that I certainly would.
20 Wednesday Mar 2013
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They say they’re rebuilding it, which is a blessing. It is located in northern Armenia, on the edge of this endless, flat valley surrounded by mountains. So flat and endless that you can’t even see the mountains on the far side. If you drained all the water out of the Red Sea and found a city at the bottom of it, that would be like living in Gyumri. In 1988 it was destroyed in an earthquake. Seven years I ended up living there for two years. Nothing had been rebuilt. Whole city blocks lay in ruins — factories collapsed, streets with ripples in them, schools where classes of hundreds of children were killed in an instant. They’re finally rebuilding the city, I’m told, which is good, but it shall always be a ghost city to me, devastated yet beautiful, like our souls.
20 Wednesday Mar 2013
This is the Cathedral of the Holy Mother, in my old stomping grounds of Gyumri, Armenia. Everyone called it Yot Verk (Յոթ Վերք) when I lived there. It is located at one end of the huge main square that makes up the heart of the city. There were only a few large buildings left (at least when I was there), this cathedral being one of them.A friend of mine got married in it and when you leave the building you are not suppose to turn your back on the center hall so we are had to slowly shuffle out walking backwards, trying not to trip.
Posted by babylon crashing | Filed under Armenia, Illustration and art